Winery restaurants improving with age

Okanagan Valley, B.C.-Sitting on Quails’ Gate’s view-kissed, sun-drenched patio, it’s hard to imagine that only a few years ago the collective powers that be wondered whether wineries should be allowed to serve wine. Common sense-and the irresistible lure of tourism dollars-prevailed and today, the Okanagan is home to a wealth of respectable, sometimes even superb winery dining.

Quails’ Gate offers a prime example of how winery owners have risen to the occasion. The Stewart family has consistently been forced to revise and revamp their efforts to keep pace with public expectation. And what a pace it has been.

The newest incarnation of Old Vines Patio and Restaurant is the third incarnation in five years-quite a challenge for a winery that probably never dreamed of running a restaurant when it crushed its first grapes.

The new, year-round slate- and cedar-trimmed room boasts sweeping lake and mountain views from inside and out. And in summer, the wraparound floor to ceiling doors open wide to let the vineyard in, while those seated outside are gently misted to keep cool.

Last week, we visited twice, once with Quails’ Gate proprietor Ben Stewart and once on our own, anonymously. Both times we were impressed at the creativity and quality of food coming out of the kitchen under recently arrived chef Steve Marston.

Tastes that caught our fancy in particular? From the brunch menu, a cooling, savoury roasted red pepper chilled soup, and panko-crusted coho cakes, served superbly hot, with a flavoursome sour cream and dill dressing.

Even though the recommended Pinot Noir would have been a good pairing, we’d been already seduced by the Quails’ Gate 2004 Family Reserve Chardonnay, not only a perfect match but arguably the best family reserve Chard to date. If you can find it locally, you’ll be rewarded with balanced, moderate French oak and creamy overtones, underpinned by good acidity and minerality, making this one of the most Burgundian-styled Okanagan Chardonnays around.

Other tastes you’ll find on this list include the Limited Release 2004 Cabernet Sauvignon, which sports vibrant black fruit, well-rounded tannins with chocolate and tarry notes-made predominantly from estate-grown fruit. That, in itself, puts paid to the notion that you can’t ripen Cabernet north of McIntyre Bluff. But you’ll have to head down here to taste it.

Our pick of wines that you can find include the 2005 Quails’ Gate Limited Release Dry Riesling with a green apple top and zesty lemon-lime notes (BCLS $15.86). The 2005 LR Gewurz (with just a touch of Pinot Blanc) has a floral aroma, soft acidity and gentle spicy notes through the close. It’s perfect for matching with lightly spiced Asian plates. VQA and PWS $16-$20.

The range of wines is just one more appeal of winery dining. Frequently, you can’t find these bottles elsewhere, as vintages are long depleted. Sumac Ridge, for example, offers a long lineup of Black Sage wines dating from some of the earliest bottlings at its always worthwhile Black Sage Bistro. While, just up the way, Mission Hill’s Terrace Restaurant focuses on seasonal fare, such as baked halibut with shemji mushrooms, smoked rack of lamb with creamed potatoes; and wild boar sausage with r”sti potatoes and oyster mushrooms-all paired, again, with a full range of wines.

In short, we’re spoiled for a combination of views with menus to match in the Okanagan.

One of the valley’s best values for panoramic plates is found at Gray Monk, whose sun-soaked Grapevine Patio and Restaurant with sweeping lake views is surrounded by baskets of vibrant purple petunias. With chefs Willi Franz and Ren‚e Haudenschild, it’s no wonder the Grapevine patio has become one of the valley’s most popular stops. Top tastes here: the seafood salad, with fresh shrimp, artichoke and Alaskan crab legs; and a succulent lamb fillet with red wine rosemary demi-glaze.

And, of course, no shortage of wines, including hard to find Rotberger, and the newly arrived 2003 Odyssey sparkler (which Gray Monk now produces at its own facility)-a delightfully leesy, toasty bubble, great on its own or as a stylish food accompaniment. Also high on our list of picks is Gray Monk 2005 Pinot Gris, a pretty salmon colour, richly textured with tropical and gentle citrus tones.

Widely available:

– Gray Monk Latitude 50 White 2005

This easy drinking blend of Bacchus and Riesling, along with Muller Thurgau and Gewurz accounts for much of the winery’s production-testament to its popularity and approachability. Complex on the palate, with hints of melon and tangy citrus. BCLS, $13.99.

Source: vancourier.com