VINES & WINES: Time to stock up on some Virginia wines?

Chardonnay and a good chicken dish. What could be a better combination, particularly with just the right Chardonnay, and especially one made in Virginia?

That’s what my friend Corky had on his mind, but he was worried.

He had just learned that some Virginia wines might not be available in local establishments in the near future.

He dashed into Once Upon a Vine, a wine retail store tucked away on MacArthur Avenue on the North Side.

„I need to stock up on some Virginia wines,“ he told owner Bob Kocher. „Has there been a run on them?“

Kocher laughed. „No. No run.“

Availability of some wines at wine stores could be dicey in the future, however, because of a change in the law.

Wineries that have been distributing their wines to retail outlets and restaurants no longer will be allowed to do so. They still can sell from their own wineries and at festivals, but store shelves could be bare of wines from such places as Gray Ghost, James River Cellars and Lake Anna, among others.

The reason? These wineries, most of which are too small to be able to afford to use wholesalers, must now go through distributors to get their wines into shops, grocery stores and restaurants.

„This could have a devastating effect on some wineries,“ Kocher said. „With a 25 percent markup by wholesalers, it would put a bottle out of the ballpark. A $12.99 bottle becomes $17.99. People who are staunch lovers of a particular wine will stick with it, but others will switch. That would kill the poor winery.

„Some are so small their production is not large enough to be able to go to a distributor to distribute around the state.“

Corky was dismayed.

„I was just starting to learn about Virginia wines. I can’t go traipsing off around the state every time I want a special wine.“

For now, he doesn’t have to. Shelves are stocked with bottles, many from the 110 licensedwineries in the state.

Corky has taken a liking to a 2004 Reserve Chardonnay ($18.99) from Gray Ghost Vineyards & Winery, one of about 90 percent of Virginia wineries that totally or partly self-distribute, according to the Virginia Wineries Association.

Corky had an impish grin on his face when asked how he discovered the wine.

„I just liked the name,“ he said.

Gray Ghost was named after legendary Confederate officer John Mosby, whose ability to stealthily get behind enemy lines earned him that nickname. The winery is located in Amissville, 11 miles west of Warrenton and in an area Mosby and his raiding parties once roamed.

„The price was a little high for me,“ Corky said, „but I bit the old bullet and bought it. I really liked it.“

„Good choice,“ Kocher said. „This wine will go with any good dinner — poultry, any seafood. It’s not overly oaky, and its aroma is wonderful. It has tones of apple and butter.“

„What the heck is the difference between the Reserve Chardonnay and the other Chardonnay?“ Corky asked.

Amy Payette of Gray Ghost explained.

„The Reserve Chardonnay is aged in barrels made of new French oak from the Allier Forest,“ she said. „Regular Chardonnay is aged in new and 6-year-old barrels.

„The Reserve Chardonnay also goes through malolactic fermentation. This is a second fermentation that changes it from harsh malic acid to a softer lactic acid, which gives it its buttery character.

„Grapes for the Reserve Chardonnay are all grown on the property. The other Chardonnay is a combination of our fruit and others brought in.“

Corky learned the Reserve pairs well with seafood, especially those in cream sauces, such as Alfredo, and the more heavily spiced poultry because this particular Chardonnay won’t overpower the food.

„But what about the price?“ Corky wanted to know. „Why is it so high?“

„For one thing,“ Payette said, „the all-new French Oak barrels cost $900 per barrel. And the Reserve ages 15 months versus the other at 8 to 9 months.

„You compare this Chardonnay with similar ones from California, and you’ll see you’d be paying $40 a bottle out there. Our Reserve consistently performs well against those Chardonnays. So $18.99 isn’t looking so bad.“

Corky grabbed a bottle of Reserve Chardonnay from the shelf.

„I’m sure I’ll be back for more . . . if you’re able to stock any more.“

Kocher left no doubt about his stance on the self-distribution brouhaha.

„It’s totally ridiculous, totally unfair to the poor fellow out there who’s not only taking care of his vines but also doing the harvesting and the wine making.“

Corky nodded in agreement.

Source: timesdispatch.com